A bit of a walk and listening to a bit of a talk before returning to Alice Springs! – Day 285 – 30 October

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Passing yesterday’s rocky adventure on the way to the new rocky one!

Today we wanted to spend a bit more time at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and go and see a bit closer up the other ‘rocks’, those that we had yesterday seen from the air in the helicopter – Kata Tjuta! We planned to try and complete at least one walk today and if our little legs were not aching too much then perhaps follow it up with a second but even though it was still only early in the day it was already warming up towards being quite a scorcher.

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The new rocks are in town …. Talking Heads!

Whereas Uluru is a monolith, that is a single huge rock, Kata Tjuta one the other hand is an entirely different creature as it is an agglomeration – a mass of smaller rocks all held together – proving that I do listen and/or do my homework before writing this tosh … lol! The indigenous people call them the ‘Olgas’ meaning a load of heads and as we drove closer we could see what they meant, the rocks really did look like a group of people having a bit of a natter – okay they would have to be very very large people but then I do have a quite an imagination!

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Walpa Gorge – a big red corridor!

The first walk we did here was a shortish one to the Valley of the Winds and along the way we saw the Olgas faces up close and personal and although the rock looked a bit like Uluru, they also did not if you know what I mean! However, there were quite a few people with the same idea but it still turned out to be a good stretch for the legs. It was a fair bit quieter and to be honest a fair bit hotter on our next walk – the Walpa Gorge walk. The gorge was quite a nice stroll but as the walls closed in it was almost like being in a strange but huge red corridor. What made it even worse or better depending upon your viewpoint, was that the walk was not too long as our legs were now starting to feel a bit worse for wear especially after our exertions yesterday around ‘the rock’. At Walpa though we had hoped to see a bit of wildlife, especially some birdlife but we ended up hearing much more than we actually saw.

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Too big heads in the foreground and a few more big heads in the back …

It was great for us to have had a closer view of the other great rock feature in the area and as we drove back towards civilisation we came across a lay-by with a viewpoint that gave us one last opportunity to view both great rocky sights before we headed on back into town.

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Wooden weapons, would have been much more useful for us if they would work against the flies!!

Once back in town we had the opportunity to take advantage of one of the free things you can do here by listening to some aborigine bush yarns! We arrived at the small green in the centre of the little town at the appointed time and a chunky looking aborigine, who we soon enough found out was called Leroy, rolled up with a box that seemed full of ‘stuff’. Peeking out the box, we recognised the boomerangs but had no idea what the other vicious looking equipment was. Our storyteller was here to talk about the weapons the aborigines used for hunting in the outback possibly before the invent of the supermarkets! Leroy turned out to be quite a cool guy with a very laid back story-telling style and he explained to us all about how the roles in aborigine society are quite divided – the men do the hunting and the women the gathering and never the twain shall meet! He did not think of the division in their society as being ‘sexist’ rather that men and women are taught different skills to make them better prepared for doing the role they are assigned. I suppose when finding your next meal might mean the difference between life and death mixing the two roles would be a luxury the indigenous could ill afford simply on the off chance that it would pay off! The weapons were really cool but probably deadly in the right hands and Leroy taught us some new facts, like that there is no word as boomerang in Aborigine – so what do they say when they need to borrow it I wondered? Leroy had the answer, he said it was called it a ‘kuliand’ or something that sounded a bit like that – oh yes after my earlier factual success this is possibly quite a craptastical fact(let)! However, some of the woods the weapons are made from have to be treated beforehand to make them hard enough to break animal bones and the like! It turned out that the indigenous peoples also invented the very first glue from a sap which had a very high content of silica (from the sand) and this made the glue set like rock but then when it was reheated it would then soften! With stories such as these, Leroy kept us all enthralled, it was great to listen to him and every now and then he would pass round a weapon or something for us to have a bit of a closer look at. We both thought it was great to find out more about aboriginal life as it seems to be quite difficult here to find yourself one-on-one with an indigenous person and the things that you want to find out more about you don’t really want to ask the questions for! It was a great and very fitting way to end our trip to the centre of Oz but now it was time to make our way back out again.

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The Mount in the distance!

Job done we once again jumped into our box-on-wheels – well our little camper van – and off we zipped back towards our next camp back near Alice Springs once again. On the way and probably because the weather was that much better than when we last travelled these roads there were many new wonders to see! We stopped to have a look at a huge salt lake with what looked like an island in the middle and this was across from the viewpoint for Mount Connell which looked like a huge plateau away in the distance – all these things we had managed to miss eh!

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The island in the middle of the salt lake!

Towards the end of the day and nearing the campsite it turned out to be a tale of two battles, one against our ever-dwindling petrol reserves which we managed to win – though God only knows what we would have done if we had lost that one – and the second was a battle against those formidable foe, ‘the ants’ and this one we well and truly lost – damnable critters they are!

 

 

 

From entirely different angles – the Red Rock that is Uluru! – Day 284 – 29 October

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There were many, many more photos taken before this one – we were waiting that long!!!

We had set our alarms for Sunrise today as we very much wanted to go and see Uluru as the sun rose over it. However, as it happened we had set our alarm clock far too early as there was no Sun nor anyone else around for that matter. That was only at first anyhow, there was still quite a while before the Sun was actually ‘rising’ so we waited, as the crowd grew, with bated breath! I must admit it turned out to be not the greatest of spectacles but it wassail very watchable and to be fair, compared to many of the other ‘unmissable’ sunrise sights, this was probably one of the best we had seen on our travels.

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Liz looking somewhat pensively at Uluru!

We then drove towards the rock itself and carried on a bit further round it to a car park at the rock’s base to start on the walk and if we could take in the free guided walk – the Marlu Walk! The guides were two of the park’s rangers, an indigenous guy called Paul and a trainee and as they walked along telling us stories we followed along behind. The walk was quite informative but it was a strange kind of informative in that some of the things about the rock and how it interweaved with aborigine life Paul could tell us, whilst others are secrets of the tribe and these could not be told due to the laws of the aborigines. One of the stories that he alluded to actually took place over several locations, of which Uluru was but one but the only portion of the story our guide could relate was the part about Uluru itself as here we were, the other parts of the story could only be told at the appropriate location. I actually really liked the thought of that, parts of a story being told at the particular place that relating to the story so you could soak up the vibe as it were. A story that would literally get you on your feet because if you do not go then the story stops – brilliant really! Paul also told us that some of the stories he had could not be told were because of gender, others because they were simply ‘lore’ that a person learns these as they grow and they cannot be told to others. It is truly amazing in this day and age where everybody seems to want to share every iota of their lives – good and bad – over the internet that these people hold onto their stories as being so very precious. It is as if the stories are the embodiment of their history and indeed what they themselves are and they really do seem to hold this true in their hearts.

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Me and You and a Whole Lotta Uluru!

As we walked, Paul talked and it was about when talking about the rock that his speech became most poignant. You could not climb up the rock presently because the chain that you can use to pull yourself up had been vandalised and the authorities had no idea who the ‘vandals’ were. Paul said that whilst it was up to the individual whether or not they wished to climb, the indigenous people themselves regard the place with the same sanctity that we would a religious building, say like St Paul’s or a mosque or possibly Stonehenge and they ask that we ‘outsiders’ respect the place too. For me it was the fact that Paul had given us glimpses of what could be told and what could not that made me feel that this is not a game to the Aborigines and I think this, more than anything he could have actually said which made me feel that the rock would not benefit from having my dirty great ‘plates of meat’ (= feet) running up and down its face. This is their culture and I think that although we all seem to spend a lot of time trying to be so very similar perhaps we should see good in the differences there are in cultures too and champion these and respect them too. I told you, this travelling is getting me in touch with my more hippy side!

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I am not sure what it all means – possibly a recipe for Wichity Grubs!

 

We thanked the rangers and we continued to walk around the base of the rock on our own. The walk does not keep you close to the base all the time, sometimes it moves away from the rock to lead you away from those portions of the rock which are more sacred to the indigenous people. The walk also, at places, has signs requesting that no photos are to be taken, again to preserve the sanctity of these shrine areas. We did respect the wishes the signs conveyed to us and so kept the camera stowed well away.

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Liz at this point still somewhat lively – this was not to last!

It was quite a struggle in the heat as the walk was quite a distance at 10.6km and as the Sun shone brightly so the rock (and our faces!) seemed to redden. Finally though after what seemed like us trudging on for an age we could once again see our little white van there in the distance, at the car park where we had left it – hoorah. Good old Suzy seemed none the worse for our walk but we had taken a bit of a beating both physically and perhaps mentally … lol! I am not entirely sure that we realised just how tired we were when we finished the walk but we went straight to the cultural centre and once there we started watching a film about how the indigenous people have retrieved the land and the rock from the government and during it we both started falling asleep … gosh!!

 

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Hugely huge no matter which way you look at it!

So it was that we decided to call it a morning and return to the campsite to try and grab a few zzz’s before we would be having our afternoon’s entertainment – a helicopter flight around Uluru! No sooner though that we had laid our heads down then we were awoken by the helicopter tour folk ringing us, to ask if we could be ready in the next half hour for our trip – so much for us sleeping BUT our wake-up call incentive was that as well as Uluru that they would take us and the other couple in the group to Kata Tjuta – the Valley of the Winds.

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Into our waiting helicopter ………!!

We jumped up out of our makeshift bed and soon enough made ourselves ready and by the time the guides rolled up we were chomping at the bit. In the van already were a young German newlywed couple who would be joining us and soon enough the van whisked us away to our waiting helicopter!

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Only now do you start to get a feel for just what a big rock it is – and this is just the bit above the ground!

As you can imagine the flight was absolutely brilliant and the scenery stunning as well. First we flew towards Uluru and although they only allow you so close, this is still enough to get a much better feel for just how big the rock is, it is absolutely huge and then from there it was on to the ‘Olgas’ to go and see one side of them. The reason you cannot do the full circuit is that the other side is where the men do their ‘business’ and so it is not to be seen by outsiders.

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Nothing round it for miles and there it is!

From up here you can get more of a feeling why Uluru and Kata Tjuta are both so revered by the aborigines, it what looks a very desolate and flat landscape they stand out just like a couple of skyscrapers would in a small village the difference is that great. It was a fantastic tour and a great hoot, the Germans were really enthralled by our travelling story too which was very nice – and possibly very polite – of them.

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The only way to travel … lol!

When we parted at the end of the trip we wished them the very best of times together and waved them off. It had been a great experience to share with them especially with the unexpected upgrade, sometimes we are just too lucky for words!

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The Olgas, the lads are all round the other side whooping it up!

Flight done, we were dropped off once more back at our camp where we grabbed a quick bite to eat before going back out in the van to go and see the Sun over Uluru one last time but this time to see it’s setting. The setting was a bit better and we quite enjoyed the photo opportunities it presented but by the time the Sun had said goodbye it was time for us to be leaving too as we needed our beauty sleep.

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No matter where you take a photo from it never seems to look real!

So it was back in the van for us and back to the camp to actually hit the hay this time, where we made like lights and were out in an instant.

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This started off as just a me and Liz pic and then Uluru only went and photo-bombed it! How we chuckled!